Vienna’s connection to the Catholic Church is rather subtle, apart from the opulent churches on every plaza. Few young people participate in religious life and only about seven percent of all Austrians attend services weekly, which is typical throughout post-Christian Europe. Nevertheless, the social memory remains that to be Austrian is to be Catholic.
During the Counter-Reformation the Hapsburgs called for complete loyalty to the social system of the monarchy and the Church and there were severe consequences for those who rebelled. Indeed, those who stood against the Baroque Church left the country, were imprisoned, or were killed. Baroque architecture was tantamount to a propaganda campaign for people to join in and conform. While more liberal ideas have won the day, the social memory remains.
Today, Viennese school children are taught Catholic teachings (or "Evangelical" which is rather vague Christian stories if the parents write a request for special classes) in state school religion classes from the first grade. Parents consider it the job of the state to educate their children about all things including religion. Most of the young people I talked to had no at home education about their faith. The education is mainly teaching the Christian stories, such as the stories of saints, and the dogma of the Catholic Church. All school children attend Mass on the first and last days of the school year as a school trip.
In time the children's science teachers or another adult told some other option for belief, such as simple idea of Darwinian evolution, so many quietly turned their minds away from the Church. Nevertheless, the allure of presents and money brought most to fulfill confirmation classes. Indeed, most continue to go to Catholic religion classes into Gymnasium (prep school). By that time, the religion classes were mostly philosophy, ethics, and sex education. No other Christian denominations were taught in Catholic religion classes, but other world religions were surveyed.
As on student explained, “To the outside they spoke of God on the mountain top and that all ways reached the top. But, on inside, it was clear that [Catholic] teaching was the only way for us.” This seems to be the Austrian take on post-modernism is: All ways may be okay in other cultures, but for us - our tribe - we show solidarity by going along with out heritage, despite unconvincing teaching, because it is part of us.
This religion education surfaces in conversation with Viennese. In my experience, there are two main responses: Some write-off religion as an uninteresting subject that they have already passed; others are deeply intrigued with all faiths, as though their religion classes on wet their appetites to understand how other people worship. As a protestant Christian who is deeply dedicated to Jesus Christ and a free thinking person, I obviously have a more interesting time with the second group. However, I've been mutually surprised by the members of the first group who suddenly speak of deep existential issues which apparently were outside their understanding of Faith.
The bond to the Church also remains in the form of strong family ties. Food, feasts, holidays, and celebrations of rites of passage is still all directed to the memory of their Catholic legacy. Children are christened into the community and confirmed with presents in early adolescence. Most married Viennese eat at home with the family, and turning the TV on during this sacred time is not acceptable in most households. The family is first, especially for women according to the Church, and to prioritize anything above family time is simply not acceptable.
Unfortunately, religious ideals are often upheld with negative reinforcement. One student recalled being shamed by the priest and a mother of one of her classmates for ending her ministry to the church as a candle holder at services when she was a child as the though the integrity of the community were depending on her. Even though her mother had left the church, as an aspiring lawyer this student told me that it would be bad for business connections to leave the community completely.
Part of this honor-shame control in the community for conformity, there is a certain formality and way in which you engage with people socially that is still very hierarchical. Younger people speak to elders first in respect, as do new people to the established neighbors. The elder ladies of communities are more or less seen as guardians of Ruhe und Ordnung (quiet peace and order). If one calls attention to a faux pas, it is best to humbly acquiesce even if you'd rather tell her to mind her own business.
Of course, there are frequent rebellions against this system, but for an outsider, it's important to understand that there is a system to begin with.
